The history and the memory

I thought how lucky I am,

I thought how sad they are;

I thought what's life without beautiful things,

I thought how bizarre life can be for them.

The fact is I know nothing,

The fact is they are just as happy;

The fact is they live thru to see the brutality,

The fact is they survived and accept whatevers left of it.

Angkor saw its 500 years of glory,

Khmer Rouge saw its 5 years of crimes against humanity;

They have the pride of history,

They have the tears of memory.

Dedicated to all the Kampuchea kids ... thank you for showing me what's important in life.

Final pointers on Siem Reap

To end my Siem Reap trip series, I would like to give a few pointers about travelling in this little town.

1. Go to Bar Street for dinner. Don't worry about going anyway else because you will regret it. Other than the wide range of restaurants and cafes you can find in Bar Street, there is also some art galleries that deserves very good review. We tried eating in a restaurant near our hotel and we were slaughtered like a pig. Look at the picture below.

This few pieces of dried pathetic french fries cost us USD1.50!

2. You have to try their Angkor Beer. It only costs USD0.50 per mug and you will never get drunk (hehehe ... got it?). Anyway, a small bottle of mineral water cost USD1.50, so technically it makes more sense to just order the beer.

Cheers!

3. Since other than templing, there is nothing much to do in Siem Reap, a lot of people pay money to watch the traditional Khmer Apsara Dance. No, you do not need to pay, just go to Temple Club. You can watch for free as long as you order some food. Oh yes, please try one of their local dish called ‘Amok’. Delicious!

Khmer Apsara Dance

4. Siem Reap is by far one of the most humid place I've been too. Judging from the fact that I lived in Malaysia which is one of the wettest country in the planet, it means a lot. Apparently the fact that Siem Reap is like a basin/valley with soil that is mostly muddy has made this place unbearably humid. So, do bring more clothes and deodorant and don't bother bringing nice shoes. A pair of flip flops will get you anywhere. (Evelyn, take note!!!)

This is like the nicest street in Siem Reap

5. Have lots of USD1 small change with you. The adorable children who sells bracelets or books to you can really use your help. Learn about their Khmer Rouge nightmare, I’m sure you’ll not be hesitant to buy whatever they offered you.

6. How would a trip to any southeast asia countries be complete without visiting their night market right? Wrong, don't bother. There's nothing there that is remotely local. You can see that it is a replica of merchandises found Thailand except more expensive. And the night market is smaller than the night market we have in our local neighbourhood. Besides, if you want to spend money to help the economy, get the stuff from the local kids or the disabled person on the street.

OK, I have a shopaholic friend as travel partner, so I can't escape it.

Location: Siem Reap. Cambodia

Date of travel : Oct 2009

Mother of all temples

OK, I think there is a lot of misunderstanding of the term Angkor Wat as people thought it meant all the monuments in Angkor. Obviously if you follow my blog choronologically, you will know by now that Angkor Wat is only one of the many many monuments or temples. Like Tomb Raider was filmed mostly in Ta Prohm and a little bit in Angkor Wat and Phnom Bakheng. Having said that, Angkor Wat is still like the mother of all temples in Angkor Region just by the sheer size of it. It took 25,000 workers and 30 years to complete this!


The best time to view the majestic Angkor Wat is during sunrise and the time is 5.30am (yes, 5.30am). OK, I’m still snoring away in the bed. So, we decided to go to all the other temples and round back to Angkor Wat in the evening for the sunset. But I didn’t witness the sunset in Angkor Wat (OK, that’s an entirely different story) but the point is I’m finally in Angkor Wat!


Angkor Wat is a freaking big complex, surrounded by moat that is even wider than that at Angkor Thom. It is believed to be the biggest religious structure in the world and this is like built more than 10 centuries ago! As you walk in through the long causeway nearing the complex itself, you will see throngs of photographers complete with tripod on the left side. OK, this got to be the photo spot for Angkor Wat. There you go.

From outside, Angkor Wat gave you an awe-inspiring feeling. But once inside … hmmm … let’s just see the picture and you can judge for yourself.

Perfect for hide and seek

It really does mean 'ruins'

OK, I think photographers would really like this place. It’s like a maze with many column walkways and I believe on a good sunny day it will provide many fantastic good picture with beautiful lightings in the ruin; but to normal tourist, I sort of feel that it is overated. Either that or the Cambodian government should put in more effort to restore the place to at least half of its once grandeur.

One of the many column walkways

One of the lotus tower from up close. Can you spot me at the bottom?

One of the main feature of Angkor Wat is its extensive base relief covering the entire wall of the temple. It is about 1km in total length and tell the history of Angkor. 1km ... really, I didn’t have the time or much energy left to go thru it all. Come to think of it, now I know why people need to spend like at least half a day here. Anyway, we just pick half the gallery and walk clockwise (which is the wrong way) from the north.

Victory of Vishnu over Asuras

Churning of the sea of milk (This is the 54 gods)

Heaven and hell gallery

Pandavas & Kauravas

Trying to take a dramatic effect portrait to show how exhausted I am

Finally to end the day with a high note, we got to make a decision where to complete our journey at sunset. Somehow witnessing sunrise and sunset seems to be a very important exercise to do in Angkor. Since we couldn’t wake up for sunrise, the sunset is something we cannot miss. As the weather was not exactly good after a 1 hour downpour we figured if we hang around in Angkor Wat, there will not be any sunset to see as it is still very cloudy. So we proceed to the next and final monument that Dina told us to go which is Phnom Bakheng.


Located at the hill nearing Angkor Thom and about 1km away from Angkor Wat, this temple is situated on the hilltop. So we gotta sort of hike our way up there thru the middle of the jungle. In the beginning I was kind of worried as there seems to be just the 2 of us and the sky is getting darker. But after we reached the summit and saw the surprisingly impressive temple, we are in the company of about maybe 30 other tourists.

And so we climb our way up the top of Phnom Bakheng.

Phnom Bakheng was also filmed in Tomb Raider where the helicopter drops off Angelina Jolie when she first arrived

As 5pm approaches, we suddenly see groups and groups of tourist ascending the hilltop temple. By the time the sun begins to set which is about 5.30pm, we have more than 300 tourists standing on the rooftop of Phnom Bakheng!

And by the time the sun is gone, there are still tourist rushing up. Too bad, so this is what they have missed ...

Ok, it's not a fantastic sunset view, I've seen better. But after a whole day templing and added in the climbing to the hilltop and further climbing up the temple (advice: people with weak ankle shouldn't try) and with the company of more than 300 fellow ruin travellers, the sunset has provided me a beautiful finale to my journey in Angkor.

Location: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Next, Final pointers on Siem Reap

Tomb Raiding in the ancient Khmer trails

As we got out of Angkor Thom, it is about time to lunch. However on the way to the Khmer Family Restaurant, we passed by Takeo. So obviously I wouldn't passed out the chance to take a look at it.


According to the guide book, this temple is unfinished, which we wouldn’t be able to identify anyway since the finished temples are in worsen condition. Apparently Jayavarman V is the king who ordered to build this and died before it is completed. Yet another story is that a lightning strike the construction which means bad omen, hence they abandoned the temple.


But yes, I agree it would have been one of the finest of Angkor structure.

Takeo, the unfinished temple

We didn’t go in because we realised there isn't a single soul here and you know, old ruins are creepy ... so to be safe, we break for lunch. We had our lunch fronting a beautiful lake and only after we are about to leave that our driver told us that it is called Srah Srang, which is yet another ‘item’ on the map.


Translates as ‘A Large Basin’, this is a man made lake 800x400 metres, excavated during the 10th century. What is it for? The king and his wives swam here hence this is the royal bathing pool. Hmmm, the king must be damn fit. This is like bigger than an olympic size pool, no?

Srah Srang, the royal bathing pool

Alright, alright … my heart is beating very fast. This is the place I came for. Ta Phrom is a temple that has literally been swallowed by the jungle. This is where Angelina Jolie was filmed in Tomb Raider Part 1. She picked up a Jasmin flower and then falled into the tomb (well the tomb is of course unreal).

Anyway, a walk into Ta Phrom gives me so much thrills and goose bumps. We’re trekking inside the jungle (OK OK, there’s like a muddy walk way about 5 metres wide that has been cleared for tourist like us). But still, we are surrounded by trees like 20metres high and sound of the jungle like birds, crickets or some weird but beautiful sound from all directions.

This is where Angelina Jolie stands ... woohoo ...

OK, there isn't any Jasmin flower in sight (yeah I know, just saying)

Ta Phrom, the lost temple

OK, about the temple, it is built in 1186. It is a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. This is about the most raw temple you can find in Angkor. Most of the structure has either collapse as a lot of walkways are impassable or it has been eaten by the jungle. This is a perfect demonstration of nature taking over civilization.

I think this is the infamous Crocodile Tree

Simply out-of-the-world experience being able to walk in this once lost temple. Verdict: MUST COME!

Location: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Next, Mother of all temples

Still in the Great City of Angkor Thom

As we exit out of Bayon’s north gate, about 200m away we come to the Baphuon. Its structure represents the mythical Mt.Meru. Apparently there was a sleeping Buddha on the west side of the wall, but I really cannot see it altho a small boy keep pointing at it for me (eeeee, creepy). Because we are short of time, we didn’t explore inside Baphuon. We head to the monument next to it.

Baphuon (looking like Mt. Meru)

Right next to Baphuon is the Phimeanakas which means ‘Celestial Palace’. This is the Royal Palace in Angkor Thom and it was enclosed within a 5 metre high wall. In the centre of this royal square is the Phimeanakas, a 3 tiered rectangular pyramid, which most probably is a private royal chapel (according to guide book).

A grand walk way to Phimeanakas

The grand royal chapel but in terrible condition

Bravo to Linda for climbing up all the way to check what is left of this ruin. Anyway, the roof has since collapsed and according to Linda, there is nothing left up there, except piles of rubbles. OK, so I didn’t missed much for not climbing all the way up there.

The Elephant Terrace

The wall behind us is a 350m long terrace with elephants carvings. Apparently this is a viewing stand for public ceremonies and also served as the king’s royal audience hall. If we can imagine a lot of people and fanfare here watching elephant parades or horse chariots 1000 years ago, I supposed it is a very grand scene. Hmmm, maybe in a few hundred years later, main street of the Movie World would become a historical monument of some sort … hehehe!

Elephant Terrace

Located right in front of the Elephant Terrace, there are twelve towers built of laterite and sandstone. It is called Prasat Suor Prat means Tower of the tight rope dancers. It is said that artists performed for the king on tightropes or rope-bridges tied in between the towers (hence the name). Maybe some sort of Cirque du Soleil in Khmer style!

Prasat Suor Prat (managed to captured 4 out of 12 of the towers)

Don't you think it is a big too far for the king to see the performance? Hmmm.

Right next to the Elephant Terrace is yet another terrace called 'Terrace of the Leper King'. Right in the middle of the terrace sits this statue, note it is naked.

There’s 2 theories surrounding this statue.
1. There’s 2 Angkor kings that have leprosy and this statue represents one of them.
2. This is a statue of Yama, the god of death and that this terrace housed the royal crematorium.
Well, we will never be able to know for sure now, would we?

OK, time to get out of Angkor Thom already.



Location: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Next, Tomb raiding in the ancient Khmer trails

The Great City of Angkor

OK, today is the day I finally fulfilled my dream to explore the ruin city of Angkor.

Few piece of advice / notes:
1. You need to hire a driver or a tuk tuk or rent a bicycle (only if you are damn fit) for the day to explore Angkor. This is because we are talking about a 30-50 km distance, and that is minus walking inside the temple.

2. The entrance fee to Angkor Wat is USD20/day and you will get a ticket with your face plaster on it. So make a little effort to look good so you can keep the ticket as souvenir.


3. If you don’t want to hire a tourist guide (USD25/day), make some effort to read about the temples you want to explore and bring a map. Otherwise you will be very lost or worst, lost in the ruins

And the journey begins ...
Angkor Thom meaning ‘The Great city of Angkor’ measures something like 10km square. Built by King Jayavarman VII, the city apparently supported like 1 million population. This is really unbelievable because we're talking about 1000 years ago. I think the Khmer kingdom are equals to the grandeur of Roman empire at that time.

Anyway Angkor Thom is enclosed by a city wall and encircled by a moat, believe to have been inhabited by crocodiles. The city has 5 gates in total but mostly tourists use the South Gate, North Gate and Victory Gate

This is the South Gate

54 gods on the left side of the entrance

54 demons on the right side of the entrance

In the heart of Angkor Thom, lies to me, the most interesting monument in Angkor, the Bayon.

Entrance to Bayon, let's go

Bayon has 54 gothic towers (I didn’t count to confirm this cause I was kind of disoriented in the courtyard) with the face of Avalokitesvara (depiciting Buddhism) on all four sides. That's like 216 faces and so it feels like you’re being watched no matter where you stand in the Bayon. Better not be naughty! We were there first thing in the morning to capture the best of Bayon.

Faces faces everywhere,

Some big and some small,
See if you can count them all!

Can you see me in the first picture on the left? The structure is huge so you kind of feel you are surrounded by it all.

Symbolically, when considered along with the wall city of Angkor Thom, Bayon is the pivotal mountain that the serpent Vasuki coiled around in the myth of ‘Churning of the sea of milk’. This is the belt that the 54 gods and 54 demons uses to pull the ‘elixir of immortality’ from the depth of the water/sea.

Simply beautiful!

Location: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Next, Still in the great city of Angkor Thom

My first day in Siem Reap

Visiting Angkor Wat has been one of my dream. Don’t know why but just looking at the pictures of this place gave me the excitements and thrills. Maybe because it was once called The Lost City plus the fact that my favourite show, Tomb Raider was filmed here. I originally plan this trip to Siem Reap solely to visit Angkor Wat. Little did I know I found another experience that will stay with me for a very long time.


Anyway, I flew to Siem Reap via Air Asia (my fav airline) with my dear friend Linda on Oct 16th. Upon arrival at Siem Reap airport we were greeted by the tour guide, Dina and a driver as we have booked a half day tour. This is something that I don’t normally do but we arrived at 8am and don’t think the hotel is ready for us to check in yet.


The first peculiar thing that happened which is also the first I have experienced with a tour guide is when he asked us where we would like to go for the 5 hours. I was like, WTF??!!?? How am I supposed to know where to go? Isn’t this supposed to be his job?


He then suggested to go to Tonle Sap Lake. Frankly I wasn’t at all enthusiastic about this. Having travelled quite a fair bit in SEA, riding another boat in another smelly mud river is not something I am keen to do. But since he said there is really nothing to see in Siem Reap town as we ruled out all the semi precious stone factory or craft centres, we finally gave in to pay USD20 per person for the 45 mins boat ride.

This is us in the boat. Notice we are sitting on rattan chairs on top of the boat for USD40!!! OK, this is really funny cause we thought we’re gonna be swinging left and right during the ride. Surprisingly, it was quite stable.

After riding for about 10 mins, we asked Dina why is there road sign in the middle of the lake?

Guess what? We are not at Tonle Sap yet. We’re actually witnessing what they called the flooded village / forest! You see, from June to October, it is rainy season and the water from the Tonle Sap overflows to flood the villages and forest nearby! OK, this is one thing I have never seen before.

Anyway, while I was in the flooded village, I felt a sense of sadness. Life is very harsh here. Villagers here are fishermen for generations and live, eat, work in the same small boat. Kids were hopping from boat to boat trying to sell us bananas or cold drinks for little money. While we dock at one of the bigger station, there are a few kids who were swimming in the water playing with snakes (yes, real snakes) just to amaze us to get a dollar or two. Sad, makes me reflect how lucky I have been.

OK, this pix is taken at Tonle Sap Lake which is the largest lake in SEA. I have no idea it is this huge, talk about ignorant! It looks like a bloody ocean.

After the Tonle Sap visit, we head back to Siem Reap town. Linda, the avid shopper was pressing Dina where to shop. He then drops us at the Center Market and said he will be back after 1 hour. We finished looking in like 5 mins! No wonder there was only 2 miserable gwailo here. We should have gotten the hint ... shame on us.

OK, let’s head to lunch so we can go back to hotel and sleep to get us ready for the templing adventure tomorrow.




Location: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Next, The great city of Angkor