Semmengoh Wildlife centre

If you have been reading my previous few blogs on the Borneo tags, bet you're disappointed right? I know most people come to Borneo to experience the best nature as to offer. But no, I gotta stay in the town looking at museums and buildings.

In the very beginning I have all intentions to visit one of the many national parks or go for one of the many cave trips. But when I was there, somehow we didn't managed to arrange any those jungle adventures. This will be the closest I have come to enjoy what nature and Borneo is all about - the Semmengoh Wildlife Centre. We came to say 'Hi' to one of the animals that probably can be regarded as closest to a human biologically - the Orangutan.

Normally tourist would pay like $85 per pax to arrange a tour to this centre but actually, we can just easily catch a bus from the bus depot near the St Thomas church for less than $10. Semmengoh Wildlife centre is about 30-40 mins bus ride away from the Kuching town.

What is so special about Semmengoh Wildlife Centre is that it is not a zoo. Orangutans are not captured and place in cages however big it is. It is actually a centre build in the centre of their habitat, the jungle, where rangers can help the orangutans and feed them twice a day. So really we are going to meet them up close and personal.

From the bus stop at the main entrance, we have to walk in about few kilometres into the wild life centre. We were told that if we wanna catch a glimpse of the orangutan at the centre, we have to be there during feeding times which is either 9am or 3pm. Since we couldn't wake up early enough to be there in the morning, we decided to go in the afternoon and hope that the orangutan is still hungry to come out and let us see them.

Indeed, we were in luck probably because the morning was sort of raining. By 2pm, we were waiting at one of the feeding station and those smart primates starts coming in from all directions. Such a thrill to see them so happy swinging from tree to tree in their home we are privilege enough to visit.

That's them, feeding on the banana left at the feeding station for them.

Yes, this is how upclose we can get to them but hiding behind trees if possible. Also trying to avoid eye contact and to let to have access to our bags. We were warned not to have any food within their vision and also avoid carrying umbrella or anything that resembles a weapon in order not to have them attack us. Sounds very scary during the briefing but when you get so close to them, you kind of forget about all the fear and just wanna take a photo of them. According to the ranger, there are 2 very distinct and famous orang utan in Semmengoh Wildlife Centre.

The first one is of course the leader of the pack, the biggest of all orangutan in the pack, the alpha male. I think his name is Richie. Boy, you don't want to mess with him and that is also why we are all standing really far away from the feeding station. He is one freaking huge orangutan with very long hair as well. Look at the way he sits, you can know he is very proud and in control. Apparently he rarely comes to the feeding station and we were definitely in luck to catch him that day. We were warned and warned not to anger him by pointing at him or laughing at him.

The second famous orang utan is more interesting. Her name is Delima. She's been given a nick name of 'Hot Mama'. Hot is the sense that she is the main reason every single time a tourist is injured enough to be rush to the hospital. Apparently, she has bad temper and if she sensed that you're trying to harm her kids like getting too near or if she found food in your hand, she'll come for you. However, I found her having such a beautiful and loving face.

That's me, having a momento picture of the signage with the names of the family of orangutans that is under the care of the wildlife centre.

I don't know if my picture do justice to this place but believe me, it is one experience that you do not want to missed if you are in Kuching.

Location : Sarawak, Malaysia
Date of travel : July 2011

Cruising the Sarawak River

Kuching City is sort of divided into two part, Kuching North and Kuching South by the Sarawak River. In fact I think they have their own municipal council as well. The north part of Kuching seems to be even less developed compared to the south part. When you have a major river in the midst of the city, the one thing that cannot be missed is to take a cruise or boat ride along the river to soak up the city.

There are 2 types of river cruise here, the one that is expensive complete with cultural dance and all and the most basic of river cruise. Since I'm not interested to watch the cultural dance in a boat, I took the most basic one, which is about 1/10 of the price.

Some of the scenery caught in the boat ride.

State Legislative Assembly Building in all its glory

The Hilton and Riverside Suites

The Astana

For those who don't know, this is our version of the Taj Mahal. Rajah Charles Brooke built this for his second wife as a bridal gift. Now the head of state stays here.

Some lucky people's house, one even with rainbow

A beautiful mosque

My new crocs :)

Absolutely beautiful Sunset

Location : Kuching, Sarawak

Next, Semmengoh Wildlife Centre

Chinese influence in Kuching

One thing that I find most surprising in Kuching is the Chinese presence and influence in the city. I mean this is Borneo, I was kind of expecting tribal influence and the sort, but apparently not.

Say for example this heavily Chinese add-on architectural in one of the building in Old Kuching.

Or a totally Chinese gazebo you probably see in olden Chinese palaces right smack in the Waterfront park.

Chinese community halls in the middle of the city.

Chinese archways to the Carpenters street / Old Kuching

Of special interest to me is the two main places right in the heart of Kuching city, in front of the Waterfront park, sandwiching probably the most busiest road is the Tua Pek Kong temple and Chinese History Museum. It is so centrally located that as a tourist, there is not a single chance you will missed it.

This Chinese History Museum is apparently built in 1912. It exhibits the history of Chinese settlement in Sarawak. Although it looks small, it has plenty of offer. The moment you enter, you will find a small theatre that shows a 2 or 3 minutes video presentation about how the Chinese migrated from mainland China to Borneo and what they do, how they settled here and help to build this city. I know videos in museums are generally very lame and boring but I have never felt so connected before.

In the short 30 minutes stay in the museum, I was being refreshed on the knowledge of my ancestors and my roots. A section of the exhibits have panels that features the different dialect group / family found in Borneo. They you are, my Hakka history!

I also found my family name admist the hundred of them on a wall.

And you know, although the entrance fee to the museum is totally free, we couldn't help but put in our contribution to the donation box in hope that the museum will continue to stay for another hundred year so that our next generation will be able to find some solace and connection here.

"Located at Jalan Temple opposite Main Bazaar and Kuching Waterfront, Tua Pek Kong temple was built in 1943. It sits on a small hill overlooking the Sarawak River, heralding good luck and blessings to the city." This is what is written in the official tourism map of Sarawak!

The very typical chinese entrance

The impressive carving on the entire outer wall.

Bird's eye view of the temple.

Location : Kuching, Sarawak

Next, Cruising the Sarawak River

The cat city

To be frank, I was really quite excited prior to my trip to Kuching. I mean I'm going to Borneo for pete's sake. I have been reading histories about this place when I was young about the White Rajah and stuff and so I had this image drawn up in my mind about something very exotic and jungle-ish, you know like Bali in Indonesia. Well let's just say it doesn't quite meet my expectations.

To start of with, I am not even sure why this city is called Cat City? I mean the malay name 'Kuching' means 'cat' but it literally have cats all over the town as if the cats founded this city, you know like Planet of the Apes.

I mean like this Cat Statue in the middle of the roundabout. Isn't it weird that you have cats as statue in the roundabout, you would thought they have statue of leaders, but no, they have cat roundabouts. This is just one of the main one in the centre of the town. So when you cite a location to meet up, don't say the cat statue roundabout because there are many of them. Actually there is also a Cat Museum here but I think I have seen enough cats already to go inside a museum full of more cat statues, so I passed.

Let me spare you the pain of thinking what Kuching has to offer. Everything Kuching has to offer located in the 1-2 km radius of the Kuching Waterfront. If you wanna book a hotel, make sure you're inside this map. Everything historical or monumental is inside this map. Any food that you wanna try can be found inside this map. All sort of souvenirs or knicks knacks of Borneo can be found inside this map. So, just stay inside this map and you're good.

So while in Kuching, something you must not missed, well I supposed you wouldn't missed it anyhow is to go to the Kuching Waterfront. Its basically lined up with stalls facing the Sarawak River. Eat or not is another story because I ate a bowl of fruit rojak and end up sitting in the hotel toilet bowl the rest of the night.

A stroll at the Waterfront in the evening is on the other hand is actually very pleasant. And if you are lucky, you will find this handsome man serenading you with the most soothing tribal music ever. I heard that only very important people in the tribe gets to tattoo their body like this. Its almost like a medal awarded to him, but instead of medal, they tattoo it with certain motifs.

And admist the very undeveloped city of cats, this unbelievably beautiful majestic building stands out like a jewel, especially at night. This is the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building.

On the last day I was in Kuching, out of sheer boredom, I stumbled upon a building with a balcony that I can access to get a bird's eye view of Kuching centre and here you go.

The two most beautiful building would be Hilton Kuching and Riverbank Suites.

If you look at the top 5 things to do in Kuching, one of them is the Kuching Heritage Walk which will bring you to this Charles Brooke Monument & The Old Court House. Actually James Brooke is the first Rajah that rules the land of Sarawak during the 1800s and hence begins the White Rajah Dynasty of Sarawak. Charles Brooke took over the Rajah throne after James died.

The Old Court House which probably is the most interesting monument within the heritage walk was completed in 1874. It houses the government here in the 1800s, later converted to a judicial administration building.

The St.Thomas Cathedral is probably the oldest church in Sarawak. Built in 1848 by Rajah James Brooke to spread the Christian faith in Sarawak.

The general post office is built during Rajah Charles Brooke time. Apparently the only greek style portico and corinthium columns in this part of the world.

This is the back street of the main bazaar. Apparently this is the oldest part of Kuching dating back to 1864. Historically, tin-smiths and carpenters congregated here. Now, antique, handicrafts and souvenirs sellers congregated here instead.

One of the thing that I enjoyed most while in Kuching is the food. I don't know why but whichever stall I picked, the food just tasted damn good. Now, while in Kuching, these are the few that you must eat or buy back.

Glorious, oh glorious Sarawak Laksa. OMG so good! I think I ate at least once a day starting from the night I arrived. Must try Must try Must try.

Second must try is Sarawak Kolo Mee. It actually is pretty similar to Hakka Mee but with a different twist. It tasted damn good too.

Sarawak's layer cake is also something that you should either try and if possible buy home. Choose the one with butter ... oh la la.

Finally is the Sarawak Pepper. OK, actually I'm not sure whether its really very good, but the black pepper does smells good and so far I have yet to open the pack and try. There is also another food product that is very famous in Sarawak which is the birds nest being that Sarawak is full of caves. But since it is rather expensive and I don't even know how to prepare them, I passed.


Location : Kuching, Sarawak, Borneo

Next, Chinese influence in Kuching